History of Knitting I

The History of Knitting I (originally published in the Latimer's Loose Threads, Issue 68 by Marilyn Roossinck

Who started the amazing tradition of knitting?  So far this is an unsolved mystery.  The practice was almost certainly a strictly oral tradition for centuries before any written records.  Because there are no goddesses of knitting in ancient legends, as there are for spinning and weaving, it is likely that knitting is not an ancient tradition.  However, fiber arts are not well preserved in the archeological record, and ancient samples of knitting, like other textiles, would have been easily lost.  Knitting needles are not found in ancient ruins either, or at least pointed sticks that have clearly been identified as knitting needles.  It is quite possible that they have been found, but attributed to other uses. Given that women are recent additions to the interpretation of the archeological records, previous scholars may not have thought of knitting, and attributed pointy sticks to other uses, like skewers.

A history of the word knitting can give us some clues about knitting in England.  Bear in  mind that the first English dictionaries did not appear until the very end of the 16th century, so finding references to the use of words before that can be somewhat obscure.  The first appearance of the word "knitting" appears in English in the late 14th Century, where it was defined as "a fastening with a rope or thread".  After a pretty big gap, in the mid 15th Century we find a reference to a "knitter" as one who does knitting work, although the surname "Knitter" is found from around 1300. By 1520 we have a definition of "knit" as do knitting, weave by looping or knotting a continuous thread, and "knitting-needle" appears in the 1590s. By 1711, when dictionaries were more established, we find the meaning for knitting as "the act of weaving a continuous thread by loops or knots" in a dictionary.  The word knitting itself seems to be drawn from the middle German word "knütten", also meaning to knot, so the early use of the surname could refer to knotters rather than knitters1.
Knitted textiles are found much earlier than the use of the words in England.  The oldest true knitted garments are cotton socks from Egypt, from around 1000 CE (Figure 1).  The designs on these socks are very sophisticated, and include a form of Arabic script called "Khufic".  This implies that by the time these socks were made the art of knitting was very advanced, and probably had been in use for some time already.  The general thinking now is that knitting originated in the middle east, and traveled first to Spain with the Moors, and then throughout Europe (Figure 2).  The middle-eastern origin is supported by the fact that we knit from right to left, as one would read Arabic, rather than left to right as all European languages are read, as pointed out by Julie Theaker in an article in Knitty.com2.  Some of the items from Egyptian remnants of knitted items show the use of the purl stitch, but it seems to have been lost when knitting moved to Europe.  The first purl stitches in Europe are not found until the mid-16th Century.

There are a number of variations and precursors to knitting, some of which are still in use today.  These will be the subjects of future articles, along with more details about the transmission of the knitting arts to and throughout Europe, and eventually to the Americas that had early pre-Columbian knitting-like traditions as well.

History of Knitting II

History of Knitting II: Nålbinding (originally published in the Latimer's Loose Threads, vol. 69 by Marilyn Roossinck

Before knitting and crocheting there was another technique that gave similar results:  nålbinding (or needlebinding in English).  It is sometimes called single needle knitting or cross knitting.  This looks like a pretty simple technique, but I found it very difficult to teach myself how to do it from a YouTube video.  It is done in the round, and there are a large number of different types of stitches.  It was used for centuries to make socks and mittens. One of the interesting things about nalbinding is that you use short pieces of yarn that you join together as you go, so it is an excellent method for using up damaged wool yarn with pieces that can be felted together.  A caveat to this is that whatever fiber is used, it must be simple to join pieces together.

Nålbinding uses a single needle with a hole in it, similar to a large tapestry needle (Figure 1).  These are often made from wood, but can also be from bone.  Needles made from horn or bone have been found in archaeological sites.

Nålbinding is an old technique, the earliest samples date to about 6500 BCE, but it may have been used earlier than this.  The oldest fragments were found in a cave in the Judean desert in what is now Israel.  A bit more recent stone-age fragments were found in a cave in Denmark, dating to about 4200 BCE (Figure 2).  These were mostly bast, or plant-based fibers.  Like all fiber products, these are not very well preserved, but there are some very well-preserved samples from the first century BCE (Figure 3).  Some old samples have been confused with knitting, because the finished products can look quite similar.

It is not at all clear that nålbinding led directly to knitting, and it has more similarities to crocheting than knitting.  However, once someone figured out a way to make textiles with a continuous strand of fiber, rather than short pieces, knitting largely displaced nålbinding.  Some have speculated that nålbinding was a better method before techniques of spinning a continuous strand, such as with a drop spindle, were invented.

Samples of items made from nålbinding have been found around the globe, including Europe, Central Asia, North and South America, and the Pacific Islands.  Nålbinding was used in Scandinavia for centuries, and is still done today.  It is also still used in parts of Peru, Iran and New Guinea.  The Peruvian story will be the subject of a future article.  The age of and distribution of samples implies that the technique was developed independently by many cultures.

Further reading: Barber, E. J. W.; Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with special reference to the Aegean; Princeton University Press, Princeton, New Jersey, 1991.
https://nalbound.com/a-brief-history-of-nalbinding/